Travelogue 2007 - Project VI

Sarah Frisof wrote the portion of the travelogue from August 12 to August 18.
Dawn Smith wrote the portion from August 19 to August 22.

Sunday, August 12, 2007

We arrived on time at Harare International Airport. After passing through the visa desk, we met up with Dr. Solomon Guramatunhu, who helped us get our instruments through customs. In the airport, we met Onias Horiwa, Oliver Horiwa, Mozyce Ngombe, and Kalisto from Showman Tours. After gathering our luggage (all of which smelled like exploded Vegemite), we drove to Solomon's house, where we deposited our luggage and headed out to breakfast at Spar. After a quick organizational meeting with Phillip Macquire and Onias, we headed to our beds for a lengthy nap. In the evening we woke to a beautiful sunset, and we rehearsed before heading out to dinner with our host.

Monday, August 13

Today marked the first day of our workshops at the Godfrey Huggins School in Marondera, Zimbabwe. The drive out to Marondera was resplendent with beauty. During the drive we passed the balancing rocks, the inexplicable geological mystery featured on all the currency. The workshops got off to a great start, though the kids were initially a bit shy. They picked up on our ideas quickly, and within the first day of workshops they became familiar with the treble and bass clefs, and were beginning to become comfortable with note reading. Dawn broke through their shy exteriors with her "Shibuya" icebreaker. After lunch we returned to Harare where we rehearsed and dined with Solomon.

Rovambira teaches Sarah the mbira

Tuesday, August 14

The organizational and interpersonal difficulties of the first day disappeared as we got off to an energetic and timely start. The students clearly had overcome their initial hesitance as they clamored for a reprise of "Shibuya." During the workshops we focused on teaching the basic ideas of meter, time signatures, and written rhythm. In the afternoon Onias and the others worked with the students on poems that would be used in performances later during the week. We also had our first opportunity to rehearse with Rovambira, a local Mbira ensemble. The rehearsal went quite well, and we figured out a way to blend the Western and Zimbabwean instruments. We focused on one traditional song to be performed in the opening ceremonies on the following day. After the workshops we returned home to rehearse and eat dinner with Solomon.

Dawn teaches a member of Rovambira the viola

Sarah confers with the mayor of Marondera

Wednesday, August 15

Today was a momentous day in all regards. The day began with a short rehearsal in preparation for the launch ceremony. After a short delay, we got the launch started, emceed ably by Gabriel. The launch was a giant success, due in no small part to the presence of the Mayor of Marondera, and the director of over 900 local schools. The ceremony included a variety of acts, including poetry from the students, speeches by the Mayor, Onias, and the Educational Minister, performances by Cultures in Harmony, Rovambira, and the collaboration of Cultures in Harmony and Rovambira. The enthusiasm for the launch was palpable, and the mayor and educational director's speeches were inspirational.

The students in Marondera strike a silly pose with their new instruments

Cultures in Harmony presented the instruments and the money donated for the computer. Following the ceremony we headed downtown to meet Paul Engelstad, the public relations officer for the US Embassy. Mr. Engelstad made an immediate impression with his enthusiasm and generosity. He generously offered to host a reception at his home following Walter Klauss' concert on Saturday, August 18th. Mr. Engelstad also took us over to the Harare College of music, where we met the director and toured the campus. Of course, we are excited about the prospect of future collaboration with the College of Music. After an exciting day, we headed back to Dr. Guramatunhu's house for dinner.

Ryan plays a musical game with his students during a power outage

Thursday, August 16

Today was our final day of preparation for both the workshop concerts and our concert at Dr. Guramatunhu's house. We worked hard with the students, reviewing rhythmic and tonal concepts. In the afternoon we split into groups to work on our compositions. My group was quite inventive, and we ended up creating a piece with several harmonic threads. Later that afternoon we returned to Harare for our final preparation for the house concert.

Dawn performs with her students

Friday, August 17

This was again a truly remarkable day, marked by both the end of the workshops and the fund-raising concert at Dr. Guramatunhu's house. In the morning we put the finishing touches on our songs and rehearsed until the students felt prepared. After a wonderful lunch, we started the final concert. The students performed beautifully, and the collaboration with Rovambira was even better than Tuesday's collaboration. At the end of the concert, several students stood up to express their gratitude for the workshops, and Ryan, Dawn, and I also gave our heartfelt thanks to the students and organizers.

While we were sad to see the workshops end, we are confident that these workshops will lead to great things. Upon returning to Harare, we had our final rehearsal for the concert at the Guramatunhu residence. The concert was a great success. We had more than sixty people in the audience, and we were able to raise quite a bit of money for Dr. Guramatunhu's charity, Eyes for Africa. This charity brings life-changing eye operations to rural African villages. Dr. Guramatunhu and the other audience members clearly enjoyed the concert, and we felt pleased with the result of the first week's work.

Saturday, August 18

Exhausted from the weeks work, we slept late, and then headed out to two orphanages. We made a frustrating trip to the grocery store, as we searched for food. Unfortunately the price cuts left the stores empty, and it was very challenging to find food that could feed a whole orphanage. Nevertheless, we ended up with quite a bit of food, which we split between Matthew Rusike Children's Home, and the Just Children Foundation.

Dawn with baby Paul

We traveled first to Matthew Rusike, where we saw some of our friends from last year. Especially notable was the size and health of Baby Paul. During our trip in 2006, baby Paul was a staple attraction of lunchtime, and it was great to see him thriving and growing. Unfortunately he appeared scared of strangers, especially Caucasians.

Sarah and Dawn play a game with kids at the Just Children Foundation

After a short visit, we headed to the Just Children Foundation, an orphanage located in downtown Harare. The children staying at Just Children appeared happy to see us, and we spent a good deal of time playing games and visiting with the kids. We also donated a good deal of clothes and bathing products to the orphanage. After the orphanage visits, we headed to dinner with our friends, and then to Paul Engelstad's house for the embassy reception. Mr. Engelstad hosted a wonderful party, and we were honored to perform for the guests.

After the party, we headed to Hanne and Hovard's home. Hanne and Hovard are a wonderful Norwegian couple who work at the College of Music, thanks to a government grant. A flutist and tubist, they were also staples of Musicamp, where Hovard did a wonderful job conducting the wind band.

Sunday, August 19

Departed Paul Engelstad's house at 6am. His driver Dhindo drove us to Marondera. Freezing this morning...beautiful sunrise on our way out...arrived at Peterhouse Girl's School at about 7:15am...met by Phil McGuire.

We went right into string orchestra rehearsal only to realize that Ryan had left all of the string orchestra music at Solomon's house in Harare...worked out OK because I had the full orchestra music so we just worked on that. The kids were excited to see us...very different from the students we worked with last week...this group a mixture of white, black, and "colored" students. All looked as if they were middle-upper class...had their own instruments, etc.

The age range at Musicamp is very broad—you have the little ones at about 11 years old, the "Cool" teens, and the "Golden Girls." All here for the same purpose: having fun learning and playing music. First rehearsal was ROUGH! Worked on the Mendelssohn, "March for Orchestra"- a good student orchestra composition. Then the students ran off to choir while Sarah, Ryan, and I tried to stay warm in the common area. Shortly after we had finally gotten a little comfy, Cathy (Phil's wife) thought it would be a good time for us to move our things into our dorm rooms. They were nice and simple- however, a far cry from the luxurious accommodations at Solomon's.

We each had our own room and shared a communal bathroom (toilets, showers (minus the curtains), etc..)...After we were settled in, it was tea time! (about 10am)...Our first real chance to sit and socialize with the students over a cup of tea...They were all soooo excited to have finally been at Musicamp- like they had been waiting for this moment all year...Most weren't 1st time campers...Some have been coming for about 3 years...This is the highlight of their "Holiday"...After tea, we all migrated to orchestra where we rehearsed more of the Mendy, 2 short "Spanish flavored" pieces by Rimsky-Korsakov, and an attempt at movements 1, 3, and 5 of Ravel's "Mother Goose Suite" under the baton of guest Musicamp conductor Walter Klauss.

We had met him earlier in the week and the night before at Paul's gathering at his house...Again, another rough rehearsal...The Ravel was clearly the piece that was going to need the most work...A little over their heads with the 6 sharps and all...Luckily, we were only doing just movements 1, 3, and 5...1 and 5 seeming to be significantly simpler...for now! Despite the near train wreck at the first rehearsal, we were assured that the campers were up for the challenge...After orchestra, the campers headed to their next activity- either chamber groups or marimbas.

String sectionals followed our lunch break...Ryan worked with the celli/bass, I had the 2nd violins and viola (notice, singular), and Caby (the other "pro" as Phil called her) worked with the 1st violins...Mostly on their orchestra music- especially the Ravel! After sectionals, there was yet another tea break...Much warmer now than the first...The sun was out and shining almost directly above us in the courtyard where we drank and ate a small snack...Immediately after "tea," the campers went off to their second round of chamber rehearsals for the day...Followed by jazz...And finally, their last music-related activity for the day- Chamber choir, led by Tanashe.

My day ended after supper, but the others participated in "games night" this evening...So after a day that began at 7am and ended at about 10pm, you could only imagine how exhausted we all were! But this was just Day 1...We still had six more days of MUSICAMP to get through, and the 1st day was merely a preview of what was expected of us and what we should expect for the remainder of the week!

Monday, August 20

Very similar to Day 1...A little warmer today, but poor Ryan still has no jacket...Sadly, there was no meat at breakfast this morning...Perhaps the bacon at yesterday's breakfast was some kind of Ò1st Day at MusicampÓ welcoming gift...Little does Sarah care, she is a vegetarian...But I guess the hot shower I took this morning was some sort of compensation for not having breakfast meat...Or maybe it was the full 24 hours of having electricity that took the bacon's place...You see, so far in Zimbabwe...We've never had a complete package of the things I consider (and I'm sure most Americans do too) to be necessities in the States that conversely, Zimbabweans have come to appreciate as luxuries - that is, a full day's worth of electricity, running water (double points for being HOT), and meat!

Anyway, moving on...The string orchestra music had arrived some time late last night...Our good Zimbabwean friend Oliver brought it to us all the way from Solomon's house in Harare (about an hour and 15 minutes away, driving...and about 3-4 hours away using the poor public transportation system, which was his means of transport)...And of course, we compensated him for his time and service...We read through the Holberg Suite by Grieg...I have to admit, this morning's string rehearsal was a major improvement to yesterday's reading...After Ryan broke down the "Eighth and 2 Sixteenths" rhythm that basically made up the entire 1st movement into fruits- "plum-melon, plum-melon" to be specific, the campers more or less made it from beginning to end...Minus a few stumbles with bowing the "plum-melon" rhythm...Which I paralleled with a "down-pony, up-pony" teaching tool...Overall, this morning's string rehearsal was a success...We went about the same routine as yesterday, which seemed to be the same schedule for the week- with very little variance...The students run off to choir, followed by tea, then Walter's scratchy voice calls us all in to orchestra...Which by the way, was also a major improvement to yesterday's nightmarish rehearsal...

By now, we were all starting to get into the Musicamp routine- activities, meals, and tea breaks pretty much sums it all up...Tonight, Walter Klauss performed an organ recital in the chapel at the boys school down the road...At 19 hundred hours, or 7 o'clock rather, we all piled into a noisy bus full of excited campers (and the soloist himself) and headed down the main bumpy road in Marondera to Peterhouse Boys Prep School...An unbelievable upgrade from its sister school a few blocks away...When we arrived in the chapel, we were all amazed at the stained-glass windows that so beautifully complemented the chapel's already sacred elegance...The organ itself was located on the far right side of the altar, and its pipes antiphonally towered above...The concert atmosphere was very relaxed...Walter wore a pair of khakis, a t-shirt (like a Zimbabwean souvenir or something), and a faded red over-shirt...We were joined in the audience by some elderly women from a nursing home in Marondera...Mostly white who had been invited to the concert by Phillip.

Before every piece, Walter would give some brief history about the work and point out various aspects for us, the audience, to listen for...Of course, this was more of an educational concert for the campers rather than an actual concert for the glorification of the performer...Walter played a wide range of pieces spanning from the Baroque era through to the 20th century...He ended with Bach's "Toccata and Fugue," which the campers immediately recognized...Following the concert, he called up all of the intrigued campers, both old and young, and gave them a brief organ tutorial...As their mouths gaped open, he continued to fascinate them by demonstrating the many different "cool" sounds the organ could produce that echoed and resonated throughout the sanctuary and into the night...A great end to a very long day!

Tuesday, August 21

Today was more or less the same as our two previous days here at Musicamp...Rehearsals are starting to look up...In string orchestra today we worked on Bach's "Air on the G String"...The campers are really starting to follow Ryan's conducting much more now...He's actually quite good at it...Much better than I could have ever been (which was the original plan...me, conducting)...We all laugh and have a good time in rehearsal, but at the same time, we're starting to buckle down a lot more today because the concert is rapidly approaching...

Following tea, we headed into our third orchestra rehearsal for the week...Again, things are starting to look up...Walter was yelling a little less in rehearsal today...I should add that he never yells in rehearsal out of anger...It's more like a passionate plea for the campers to grasp every part of the music-making- the notes, dynamics, rhythm, and most importantly, the character...Ryan and I always glance over to one another during his random outbursts...For us, they're actually quite amusing...The afternoon progressed as it did in the days prior...During their free time, Sarah, Shel (Walter's companion), and Walter went on a nature stroll in a nearby gaming park...Apparently, they saw quite a few wild animals...All harmless, of course...I was supposed to join them, but I was just too incredibly tired after a full day of playing, teaching, and coaching...It's all really draining...

Somehow, when you're in the moment working with the campers/students, the amount of energy and concentration required of you just seems to come naturally...How tired you are doesn't even cross your mind! But when you're done, the exhaustion just kind of slaps you across the face...And when that happens, you don't want to see anything but your bed...Which is where I headed for a late afternoon nap...Nothing special took place this evening...The campers prepared for the "Variety ShowÓ that they were "required" to participate in the next evening, and the rest of the day just kind of passed quietly and uneventfully.

Wednesday, August 22

Today was quite an exciting day at Musicamp...This morning's string orchestra rehearsal was a success...Ryan and I were both starting to get really excited because we were actually starting to hear a unified sound in the strings...Even more so, we think the campers were starting to become much more perceptive and sensitive musicians- which was a huge accomplishment considering that they had only been playing together for a few days...In our full orchestra rehearsal this morning, we were surprised to see a number of reporters and photographers from various local newspapers.

Apparently, Paul Engelstad, Public Affairs Officer at the U.S. Embassy, had spread the word to the media about Cultures in Harmony, our mission and our participation in Musicamp for the week...They were interested in interviewing Sarah, Ryan, and myself, Philip and his wife Cathy, and a couple of campers to piece together an article on our collaboration and involvement with the Marondera Arts and Culture Village from the previous week, and our participation in Musicamp this week...They took most of the pictures during our full orchestra rehearsal...Surprisingly, they were very quiet while doing so, and you hardly noticed their presence.

Immediately following orchestra, we all headed over to the chapel for the "Annual Camp Photo"...The campers were all very excited about this...What was supposed to be 1 camp photo turned into about 20 because nearly every camper wanted to capture this moment with their digital cameras...But no one seemed to mind very much...After the camp photo, we all took quite a lengthy, yet scenic and adventurous walk to our picnic in Gosho Park (the gaming park that I mentioned earlier)...I couldn't help but notice that the trail to our picnic location was covered with both stale and fresh animal droppings...From which animals, I really don't know...

After we ate, apparently it was some kind of Musicamp tradition to climb the nearly 50 feet in the air balancing rocks that were nearby...Initially, I was completely apprehensive...But little Claudia BEGGED me to climb the rocks with her, and of course, I couldn't resist her innocent and desperate cries...As everyone climbed the rocks with what seemed to be such ease, I could feel my heart beat faster and faster as my turn approached...I was SO SO SCARED! It didn't matter that I had seen 5 campers, Ryan, and Hannah climb up before me...Ultimately, (1 hour, and a ripped t-shirt and pant leg later) I climbed the rocks...Not to the very top, but close to it...In the end, I was happy I conquered my fear, but vowed to myself never to do something as daring as that ever again!

We all returned to camp after our midday adventure, and went about our normal afternoon routine...The campers were all looking forward to tonight's "Variety Show"...And so was I...My dorm had pieced together a dance routine to "Can't Touch This" by MC Hammer, and every other dorm had been working all week on their performances for the show...The rules for the show are that there are NO RULES! Well, just one- every Musicamp participant, from faculty/administration to campers, must perform...And when I say perform, I mean ANYTHING!

The show consisted of acts that poked fun at just about everyone at Musicamp- especially Ryan, Sarah, Walter, and myself...All in good fun, of course...We witnessed some of the most hilarious impersonations of ourselves EVER...There was literally non-stop laughter all night...In addition to the comedic acts, there was also lots of singing, acting, dancing, and instrumental performances...One of which involved Ryan and Hovart (our Norwegian friend and colleague) switching instruments and attempting to play "Twinkle, Twinkle Little Star"...Ryan now on the tuba, and Hovart on the cello! It was quite amusing...All in all, today was the highlight of the week thus far...From the picnic in Gosho Park to the preparation for the "Variety Show" and the actual show itself, everyone here at Musicamp is really starting to bond with one another...Today was, by far, one of the most memorable days in Zimbabwe yet!

A group performs at the Musicamp variety show

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